Shower Remodeling in Frisco, TX
Start with the right kind of shower project
- Walk-in shower remodel: the shower stays where it is but is rebuilt, and often enlarged, with new waterproofing, tile and glass.
- Tub-to-shower conversion: an unused tub becomes a shower. See tub-to-shower conversion in Frisco.
- Leak or failure repair: if the shower already shows soft floors, stains or recurring mold, the waterproofing has likely failed and a rebuild is usually the right fix.
- Part of a full bathroom remodel: see bathroom remodeling in Frisco.
How a shower that lasts is built
1. A waterproofing membrane, continuous across floor and walls
There are three common approaches:
- Sheet membranes, bonded to the backer board and overlapped at the seams;
- Liquid-applied membranes, rolled or brushed on in coats to a specified thickness;
- Foam board systems, where the waterproof board itself, with sealed seams, forms the barrier.
Each works when it is installed to the manufacturer’s instructions. What fails is a gap: an untreated seam, a corner or a valve or shower-head penetration that was never sealed.
2. A properly sloped floor to the drain
Water should never sit on a shower floor. The floor is sloped toward the drain (or toward a linear drain along one edge), and the drain assembly is tied into the waterproofing so water that gets through the grout still reaches the drain.
How the drain meets the waterproofing depends on the system:
| Drain type | How it works | What has to go right |
|---|---|---|
| Traditional clamping drain with a liner | A waterproof liner sits under a mortar bed; the drain clamps the liner, and small weep holes let water that soaks through the mortar escape into the drain. | The liner slopes too, and the weep holes stay open. Blocked weep holes leave the mortar bed permanently wet. |
| Bonding-flange drain with a surface membrane | The membrane bonds directly to a flange on the drain, right under the tile. | The membrane overlaps the flange fully, with no gaps. |
| Linear drain | A long channel along one edge; the floor slopes in a single plane. | The channel is set level and its waterproofing transitions are sealed; it allows larger tiles on the floor. |
2. A properly sloped floor to the drain
Water should never sit on a shower floor. The floor is sloped toward the drain (or toward a linear drain along one edge), and the drain assembly is tied into the waterproofing so water that gets through the grout still reaches the drain.
How the drain meets the waterproofing depends on the system:
3. The right backing behind the tile
Cement board or foam board rated for wet areas, never ordinary drywall, and never tile over backing that is already damp or damaged.
4. A flood test before tile
When a shower floor is made watertight with a liner, the International Residential Code (section P2503.6, “Shower liner test”) calls for the floor and receptor area to be filled with water to a depth of not less than 2 inches, measured at the threshold, to prove it holds before it is covered. Whatever waterproofing method is used, testing the floor before tile is the simplest proof that the most important layer works.
5. Ventilation sized for the shower
A fan that cannot clear the steam leaves the grout, caulk and paint wet after every shower. A larger walk-in shower may need a larger or better-ducted fan.
6. Niches and benches built as part of the waterproofing
Niches and benches are where otherwise good showers often leak:
- Niches go on an interior wall where possible, not an exterior wall, where they would cut into the insulation. The bottom of the niche slopes slightly outward so water drains, and the membrane wraps every inside face and corner.
- Benches are framed or built solid, fully waterproofed on top and sides, and sloped toward the shower floor so water never pools on the seat.
- Corner shelves and soap ledges follow the same rule: waterproofed, sloped, sealed.
7. The valve, chosen before the walls close
The shower valve body sits inside the wall, and the visible handle and trim must match that brand’s valve. Choose the fixture finish and style before rough-in, not after the tile is up. Place the controls where you can reach them before stepping into the spray, and choose a pressure-balancing or thermostatic valve.
Choosing the glass
| Option | What it is | Trade-offs |
|---|---|---|
| Framed | Thinner glass held in a metal frame | Lowest cost; more metal edges to clean |
| Semi-frameless | Heavier glass with minimal framing, usually at the edges | A cleaner look with some frame support |
| Frameless | Thick tempered glass held by clips and hinges | The most open look; heavier, and installed by specialists |
| Fixed panel (no door) | One or more stationary panels with an open entry | No door hardware; needs enough shower depth to keep spray in |
| Hinged or sliding door | A swinging or sliding door | Closes the shower fully; hardware needs occasional adjustment |
The rules and choices that come with glass
- Safety glazing is required. Glass in shower and tub enclosures is a “hazardous location” under the residential code and must be safety glazing, such as tempered glass (IRC R308.4.5).
- Hinged doors swing out. The code requires hinged shower doors to open outward, into the bathroom (IRC P2708.1). That needs clear floor space outside the door: towel bars, vanities and toilets must not block the swing.
- Glass thickness: frameless enclosures use thicker, heavier glass than framed ones. The hinges and the wall behind them must be able to carry the weight, so solid blocking is planned in the wall before tile.
- Clear or low-iron glass: standard clear glass has a slight green tint at its edges; low-iron glass is clearer and costs more.
- Protective coatings: many glass makers offer a factory-applied coating that helps water sheet off and resists mineral spots.
- Measured after tile: the glass is custom-cut to the finished tile, so it is measured once tiling is complete.
Keeping the glass clear
- Squeegee the glass and tile after each shower.
- Use cleaners the glass maker approves, especially on coated glass.
- Check hinges and clips once a year, and adjust a door that starts to drag.
Questions to ask any shower contractor
- What waterproofing system will you use, and how is it installed at seams, corners and penetrations?
- Will the shower floor be flood-tested before tile?
- How will the floor be sloped, and what drain will be used?
- What backing goes on the walls?
- Is the bathroom fan adequate for the new shower?
- Who pulls the permit, and are you registered with the City of Frisco? Our Frisco tub-to-shower page explains Frisco’s permit categories and contractor registration.
We pull the required permits and coordinate inspections.
What drives the cost of an older-kitchen remodel
- Layout changes: opening walls, moving the sink or range.
- Electrical updates: new circuits, panel capacity, and correcting older wiring.
- Plumbing and gas: replacing old supply and drain lines, moving gas.
- What the old kitchen hides: out-of-square walls, uneven floors, old flooring layers, damaged subfloor under the sink.
- Cabinets and countertops: the number of boxes, the construction, and the material.
- Lead-safe work practices in homes built before 1978.
For a fuller explanation of each factor, see the kitchen remodeling cost guide. For living without a kitchen during the work, see the tips on our McKinney kitchen page.
Who does the work
- In-house design and construction team
- Certified General Contractor
- $1 million in insurance coverage
- NKBA affiliation
- 500+ flooring and remodeling projects completed under Sami’s leadership
- Six-time Best of Plano award winner (2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2020, 2023)
- 0% financing available for qualified homeowners
See tile, glass and fixture options at our showroom, 2830 W. 15th St., Suite 1, Plano (Mon–Fri 11–5, Sat 11–4), and finished showers in our project gallery.
Shower remodeling questions from Frisco homeowners
What actually makes a shower waterproof?
A continuous waterproofing membrane across the floor and walls, with every seam, corner and penetration sealed and the floor sloped to the drain. The tile and grout are the finish, not the protection.
Why not just hire a tile installer?
Tile setting is one part of the job. A durable shower also needs correct plumbing, a sloped and tested pan, the right backing, waterproofing, ventilation and, often, a permit. Make sure whoever builds it is responsible for all of those layers.
Is a frameless enclosure worth it?
If you want the most open look and fewer metal edges to clean, often yes. A fixed panel with no door is another way to get that look with no door hardware, if the shower is deep enough to contain the spray.
Why does my shower door have to open outward?
The residential code requires hinged shower doors to open outward. A practical benefit: someone who falls inside the shower cannot block the door. Plan clear space outside it.
What are weep holes, and do I need to worry about them?
In a traditional mortar-bed shower floor, small holes in the drain let water that soaks through the mortar escape. If they clog, the mortar stays wet. Surface-bonded waterproofing systems do not rely on them.
Is low-iron glass worth it?
If you want the clearest glass, especially with white or light tile, many owners think so. Standard glass shows a faint green edge.
Do I need a permit?
It depends on whether plumbing, electrical or structure changes. We evaluate the scope and handle any required permits with the City of Frisco.
Can I stay home during construction?
In most cases, yes. The disruption is concentrated in the bathroom being remodeled.
How long does a shower remodel take?
It depends on the scope, plumbing changes, inspections and the lead time for the glass, which is usually measured and ordered after the tile is installed. Your written estimate includes a schedule.